Of course, in period series, the costumes stand out. While Bertha Russell (Carrie Coon) is the symbol of elegance and luxury, just as Agnes Van Rhijn (Christine Baranski) is luxury and tradition, with dark tones and long sleeves, Marian Brook (Louisa Jacobson) is our romantic heroine.

We first meet Marian still in mourning; her belongings are stolen on the way to New York, and when she arrives at her aunt’s house, she’s left with only the clothes on her back. Agnes, who would never let anyone in her family not be up to par, makes a trousseau for her, so it’s a parade of beautiful dresses… that maintains the young woman’s personality. How do we know? In general, especially in the first season, Marian sticks to pastel tones. Many of them are in blue.

Costume designer Kasia Walicka-Maimone designs all the beautiful models in the series and a few years ago, she spoke about the character’s choice. Remembering that Marian has a personality, which becomes clearer every day in the second season, but in the first, she was still an insecure young woman. She is forced to live with aunts she had never met after her father dies and leaves her destitute. So it’s natural for her to avoid bold tones or bold designs; she’s still trying to fit in with a new city, friends, and even family. Kasia recalled the fact that Marian grew up in a small rural town in Pennsylvania, without apparently having even lived with her mother – it’s true, Marian is never seen saying anything at all about her parents – we also realized that even though she was vain, she didn’t have guidance on fashion issues.

Being conservative, at least in appearance, and shy, softens her clashes with her aunt Agnes. But things are changing. Her innocence is in pastel tones, but she often uses yellow, a color that reveals something about Marian. “You know she is a very innocent woman, but with a strong opinion, because she was raised as a very independent soul and an outspoken person,” Kasia explained in an interview two years ago with the British press.

The fact that, even in the second season, we see Marian in yellow confirms the theory that people who like this color tend to be happy, dynamic, relaxed, and communicative, in addition to not liking isolation. In addition to these tones, we noticed in the first episode that elements of floral patterns begin to become clearer.

We will gradually update this post, of course, since we’ve only seen one episode out of 7, but Marian’s evolution throughout the season will certainly be reflected in her wardrobe. She has already faced Agnes’ wrath for secretly teaching painting at a school once a week. As she says, she doesn’t want to be caged.

Although Tom Raikes is in the past (for now), Marian’s heart will be tested again in The Gilded Age. The entry of her ‘cousin’ (who is not by blood), a widower with a daughter who is already her student, will be clearly an issue. For now, she doesn’t see herself falling in love again, but I, who am team Larry, am bothered that this perfect couple will spend the season in the arms of other people. Larry (Harry Richardson) with widow Susan Blane (Laura Benanti) and Maria, with cousin Dashiell Montgomery (David Furr).

While Larry will face Bertha’s wrath for obvious reasons, if he wants to “take over” her relationship with Susan, Marian will certainly resist the idea of marrying Dashiell and creating problems for her at home. On paper, Dashiell would be everything she could hope for: widowed, young, and with money. The problem is: would it be enough to win her over? We know Marian, at least a little… I doubt it!

The problem with Marian’s drama with Dashiell’s flirting, in my eternally conspiratorial mind, is that just as Tom Raikes was a Morris Townsend from The Heiress (Washington Square), I’m terrified that Dashiell is a Gilbert Osmond from Portrait of a Lady. In some way, at least. Unlike Isabel Archer, as far as we know, Marian Brook did not inherit any fortune. A-ha! What if my original theory is right?

In any case, pastels or not, Marian will remain one of the most elegant in The Gilded Age.

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