For those who follow Fashion as Art, the name of Cristóbal Balenciaga is at the level of the Gods. A contemporary of Coco Chanel and Christian Dior, among others, Balenciaga was considered a genius by both, but infinitely less known, due to his refusal to appear or play the publicity game. For this reason, without any surprise, many generations are unaware of his work and importance for the advancement of women’s clothing in the 20th century. The Cristóbal series, already available on Star Plus, somewhat corrects this absurdity, bringing the elusive designer and couturier to the spotlights.

At an elegant pace like the models he created, subtle, even slow, intermediated by few flashbacks, the series is, literally, a parade of elegance and sensitivity. Didactic and careful in the narrative and choice of cast (I’ll comment on the importance later), it recreates in detail the life and legacy of the Spanish designer born in Getaria, who moved to France during the Spanish Civil War – only to be ‘caught’ ‘ in Paris when the Germans invaded France in World War II – considered one of the most influential and creative designers of all time.

Who shines in delicacy and emotion is the actor Alberto San Juan, who plays Cristóbal Balenciaga, in all the difficulties of the temperament of a genius who appreciated description above all. His creative development, how he found his voice and inserted details copied by stars like Dior himself, is revealed within the context of a shy, even repressed man, whose loves and doubts permeated his genius.

When the series begins, at Chanel’s (Anouk Grinberg) funeral, where The Times journalist, Prudence Glym (Gemma Whelan, from Game of Thrones, speaking in Spanish), manages to convince the designer to grant an interview (he had only done a single one before her, for Paris Match). Then it’s a spectacular journey through time, with famous and unknown people circulating across the screen. Our frustration is growing like that of his partners because due to his perfectionism and shyness, we see the countless opportunities ‘lost’ due to his purism (he was even averse to publishing advertisements or photo shoots in a fashion magazine to avoid piracy).

Cristobál is a lesson in a well-constructed and respectful biography, with great performances. With the announced New Look, from Apple TV Plus, it is even more important to see the Spanish production first. The title of the series is that of the episode where it is established that the source of what became Christian Dior‘s signature is precisely the copy of the works of Balenciaga, the true fashion revolutionary, something that the Apple series, where the Spaniard will be played by John Malkovich, there will probably be another version. Another incredible episode is how he incredibly supported the young Hubert de Givenchy, in a relationship of admiration and unique generosity, which is the same where they come together to ban the press in the fight against piracy.

In the end, whether you like fashion or not, the series is a lesson in how a genius refuses, in the face of all pressure, to compromise his Art. To the point that its exclusivity and preciousness have transformed it into a mystery, which Cristobál helps us decipher.

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